Gavin's guide, on SPOT
La Paz After Dark
3 spots · La Paz, Mexico
Three places for the nights you want more than a taco stand. Tatanka hides down an alley and cooks the day's catch next to serious beef. NEMI is a tasting menu from a chef who spent a decade at Pujol. La Miserable is where you end up either way, working through mezcal with a bartender who knows the shelf.
#1
Tatanka Baja Fish and Steakhouse
Centro, La Paz · Seafood
You get to Tatanka through an alley off Revolución, which keeps the crowd mostly local. Inside there's an open-air patio and a glass dining room with air conditioning for the hot months. The kitchen splits its attention between the day's catch and serious beef, and it's good at both. Start with the tuna tartare, then the Llanero taco: ribeye and bone marrow.
Order this
Llanero taco with ribeye and bone marrowTuna tartareCatch of the day
#2
NEMI
Esterito, La Paz · Fine Dining · $$$$
Alejandro Villagómez spent about ten years in the kitchen at Pujol before leaving Mexico City for La Paz. NEMI is the result: a small room and a tasting menu built almost entirely on what Baja Sur grows, raises and pulls from the sea. It changes constantly, so there's no dish to chase. Book ahead and take the pairing.
Order this
Tasting menuWine pairing
#3
Mezcalería La Miserable
Centro, La Paz · Bar · $$
A small mezcal bar with a courtyard, a deep shelf and staff who would rather walk you through a flight than hand you a menu. Espadín, tobalá, madrecuishe: say what you like and they build from there. The food list is short and better than it needs to be. It fills up fast, so come early or be ready to stand.
Order this
Mezcal flightMezcalitaLa Tía house stoutChicharrones
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