Gavin's guide, on SPOT

SPOT Vancouver Guide

12 spots · Vancouver, Canada

Vancouver is unfairly beautiful and, it turns out, unfairly well-fed. Miku in Coal Harbour does aburi sushi at a level that puts most of Tokyo's mid-range to shame. HK BBQ Master and Kirin Seafood are both in Richmond — one of the great Chinese food destinations in North America — where the roast duck and dim sum are worth the drive from the city center. Phnom Penh in Chinatown has been serving its famous butter beef since 1985 and still earns every line out the door. The West End and Gastown offer a different register. Meat & Bread's porchetta sandwich in Gastown is the benchmark against which every sandwich in the city gets measured. La Belle Patate and Fritz European Fry House anchor a surprisingly serious Belgian fry culture in the West End — thick-cut, twice-fried, served with a wall of dipping sauces. JAPADOG started as a sidewalk cart and became an institution. Granville Island Public Market on a Saturday morning is the thing you plan your visit around. Vancouver rewards longer stays. The first day is the obvious stuff. By day three you're figuring out Richmond for dim sum, Chinatown for butter beef at Phnom Penh, and Gastown for good wine and pork sandwiches. The mountain backdrop never gets old. Come hungry, stay curious.

  1. Bao Bei

    #1

    Bao Bei

    Chinatown, Vancouver · Chinese · $$

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    Bao Bei is what happens when you take the flavors of a Chinese kitchen - fermented black beans, chili oil, the Sichuan pantry - and run them through a room that could be in Montréal or Copenhagen. The cocktails are serious. The bao are steamed to order. The smacked cucumber is cold and fiery and gone in minutes. This is Chinese food for people who already love Chinese food.

    Order this

    Steamed baoSmacked cucumberPork bellyCold sesame noodles
  2. Fritz European Fry House

    #2

    Fritz European Fry House

    West End, Vancouver · Belgian · $

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    The Belgians insist on two things: fry twice, serve immediately. Fritz European Fry House has been applying that philosophy in the West End for years, turning the humble frite into a destination. The fries are thick, golden, and properly crunchy - but what built the reputation is the wall of dipping sauces, particularly the garlic aioli, which has an almost cultish following.

    Order this

    twice-fried Belgian fritesgarlic aiolicurry ketchup
  3. Granville Island Public Market

    #3

    Granville Island Public Market

    Granville Island, Vancouver · Food Hall · $$

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    Granville Island Public Market has been operating under a repurposed industrial shed on the south shore of False Creek since 1979, and it hasn't needed to become a theme park to stay relevant - the produce, fish, cheese, and bakeries are genuinely good. The best approach: arrive before 10am, hit the fishmonger first, pick up something warm from one of the takeaway vendors, and eat it on the water.

    Order this

    fresh-shucked oysterssmoked salmon from the fishmongerpastriescharcuterie
  4. HK BBQ Master

    #4

    HK BBQ Master

    Richmond, Vancouver · Chinese · $

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    HK BBQ Master operates out of the basement of a Richmond superstore, which is exactly the kind of location that signals you've found the real thing. The shop does Hong Kong-style BBQ, roast duck, char siu, soy chicken, all hanging in the window and carved to order over rice. The duck has perfectly lacquered skin; the char siu hits the sweet-salty-sticky balance that separates good from great. Cash only.

    Order this

    roast duck on ricechar siu (BBQ pork)soy chickenroast pork combo
  5. JAPADOG

    #5

    JAPADOG

    Downtown, Vancouver · Japanese · $

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    JAPADOG began as a single street cart in 2005 and became the most-photographed hot dog in Canada - which makes sense once you've had one. The concept is simple: a proper North American sausage dressed with Japanese toppings. The Terimayo comes with teriyaki sauce, Japanese mayo, and seaweed; the Oroshi is topped with grated daikon and soy. It sounds like a novelty but eats like a real idea, which is why it's still here two decades later.

    Order this

    Terimayo dogOroshi dogKurobuta sausage
  6. Kirin Seafood Restaurant

    #6

    Kirin Seafood Restaurant

    Richmond, Vancouver · Chinese · $$

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    Kirin has locations across the Lower Mainland but the Richmond location draws the crowds that know what they're doing. The har gow has thin, translucent skin and a shrimp filling that stays distinct. The char siu bao are split perfectly. The XO sauce scallops are the table's move. Come with a group, come hungry, arrive when they open on weekend mornings or accept that you're waiting.

    Order this

    Har gowSiu maiXO scallopsChar siu baoTurnip cake
  7. La Belle Patate

    #7

    La Belle Patate

    West End, Vancouver · Fast Food · $

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    Poutine is Canada's most contested dish - sacred to Québécois, remixed by everyone else - and La Belle Patate is where Vancouver takes the argument seriously. The name means "beautiful potato" in Québécois slang, and the fries justify it: thick-cut, twice-fried, buried under squeaky fresh curds and proper gravy. It's become a West End institution for exactly the reason all great late-night spots do - it's exactly what you want at 2am.

    Order this

    classic poutinebutter chicken poutinesmoked meat poutine
  8. Meat & Bread

    #8

    Meat & Bread

    Gastown, Vancouver · Deli · $

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    Meat & Bread's premise is almost inconveniently simple: a small rotating menu of sandwiches made with exceptional care, served from a counter in Gastown. The porchetta - slow-roasted pork, herb-crusted, carved to order, layered into ciabatta with salsa verde and crackling - is the one that built the reputation. There's usually a daily special, always a meatball option, and a line that forms well before noon.

    Order this

    porchetta sandwichmeatball sandwichdaily special
  9. Miku

    #9

    Miku

    Coal Harbour, Vancouver · Japanese · $$$$

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    Miku introduced aburi-style sushi to North America and the city has never been the same. The technique involves flame-searing the top of each piece of nigiri, which creates a caramelized, slightly smoky surface while keeping the fish raw underneath. The result is a texture you haven't had before. The waterfront location on Burrard Inlet adds nothing to the food and everything to the mood.

    Order this

    Aburi oshi sushiSalmon aburi nigiriWagyu tatakiBlack cod miso
  10. Phnom Penh

    #10

    Phnom Penh

    Chinatown, Vancouver · Cambodian · $

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    Phnom Penh has been in Vancouver's Chinatown since 1985. The menu is Cambodian-Vietnamese, the prices are from another era, and the butter beef - seared beef with garlic butter - is one of the most talked-about dishes in the city. The fried squid is equally argued over. There is no atmosphere to speak of. The food needs none.

    Order this

    Butter beefFried squidChicken wingsLemongrass soup
  11. Tacofino

    #11

    Tacofino

    Gastown, Vancouver · Mexican · $

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    Tacofino began as a beat-up school bus parked on a surf beach in Tofino, BC. The fish taco - battered halibut, chipotle mayo, cabbage slaw, pickled jalapeño - became the thing people drove hours for. The brick-and-mortar in Gastown has the same energy and the same taco, which is the whole point.

    Order this

    Fish tacoBaja burritoCorn in a cupChurros
  12. Vij's

    #12

    Vij's

    South Granville, Vancouver · Indian · $$$

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    Vikram Vij does not take reservations and has not since day one. You wait in line on 11th Avenue, sometimes for a long time, and Vikram often comes out to talk to you while you do. Inside, the cooking is Indian in ingredient and technique, Canadian in season and sensibility. The lamb popsicles in fenugreek curry cream are the dish that made the restaurant famous. They remain the reason to come.

    Order this

    Lamb popsicles in fenugreek curryRailway lamb curryJackfruit biryaniChai

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