Yakamein House

New Orleans, New Orleans · Southern · $$

Yakamein is what happened when Cantonese cooks and Black New Orleanians traded ideas across a fence line: spaghetti noodles in a dark, soy-heavy beef broth with a hard-boiled egg and scallions dropped on top. The city calls it Old Sober because it is the accepted cure, and for most of a century you found it at second lines and corner stands rather than at a table with a menu. Giving it a permanent address on Tulane Avenue is a fairly new idea, and the bowls come loaded.