Gonzalitos

Roma Norte, Mexico City · Tacos · $$

Gonzalitos occupies a sliver of Colima in Roma Norte and runs the kind of focused taco operation that succeeds precisely because it doesn't try to be everything - a short rotating menu of guisados, good tortillas, and a salsa bar that rewards regulars. The name is a diminutive, which in Mexican Spanish signals affection rather than smallness; the people who eat here treat it with exactly that loyalty. It fills fast at noon and empties just as fast, which is the mark of a neighborhood place doing exactly what it should.