Cocina 35

Downtown, San Diego · Mexican · $$

Cesar and Maria Chaidez ran a hot dog stand outside the ballpark in Culiacan, Sinaloa, then a seven-location restaurant called Sello Rojo, before violence pushed the family north to San Diego. Their kids Cesar and Paulina opened on Sixth Avenue in 2012 and nearly failed until they put chilaquiles verdes with carnitas on the steam table; it sold out and defined the place. The cochinita pibil is the sleeper order, slow-roasted Yucatan pork served cafeteria-style before 2pm.