Paesano's

Italian Market, S 9th St at filming, Philadelphia · Sandwiches · $

Ninth Street has sold Italian sandwiches for a century, and Peter McAndrews opened Paesano's on it to push the form harder: whole roasted meats, bitter greens, a fried egg wherever it earns its place. The Arista, roast pork with broccoli rabe and sharp provolone, is the one Philadelphians argue about; the Liveracce puts chopped chicken liver on bread and does not apologize for it. Order the Gustaio and the Liveracce back to back if you want the full argument.