The Bywater

N Santa Cruz Ave, San Francisco Bay Area · New American · $$$

David Kinch spent years running Manresa a few doors up this same street, and The Bywater is what he wanted on his own night off: a Louisiana bar with a serious kitchen behind it, opened in 2016 and named for the New Orleans neighbourhood. House andouille, buttermilk biscuits and a fried shrimp po’ boy sit next to a wine list good enough to collect awards. Weekend brunch adds barbecue, which is the version to aim for.