Taquería Orinoco

Roma Norte, Mexico City · Tacos · $$

Taquería Orinoco's flagship on Álvaro Obregón has over 23,000 reviews because it deserves them - griddled suadero, bistek, and longaniza cooked on a steel disc comal over open flame, served in small tortillas with a salsa bar that rewards patience. Suadero is Mexico City's defining taco cut: a fatty, slow-rendered beef from the brisket-flank area that caramelises in its own fat on the comal, developing a crust that no other preparation achieves. There are other locations, but the Roma Norte original has the energy.