Taqueria Molcajetes

Santa Rosa, Sonoma County · Mexican · $

A molcajete is a volcanic stone mortar, and serving out of one heated until it spits is a central Mexican move that keeps the meat and cactus and cheese cooking in front of you at the table. The kitchen on West College Avenue named itself after the dish and backs it up with al pastor shaved off a real trompo and birria made with goat rather than beef. Nothing about the room is designed; the cooking is the entire argument.