Joy's Once Upon a Thyme

Chehalis, Tacoma · Café · $$

Small-town Washington runs on places that do more than one job, and Joy's is a cafe and a gift shop at the same address on State Avenue, open weekdays until three. Joy cooks from local produce and roasts her own brisket, building paninis considerably heavier than the decor suggests, and finishes with a carrot cake people order whole. Cooking classes come out of the same kitchen.