R & O Restaurant and Catering

Bucktown, New Orleans · Italian · $$

Bucktown was a lakefront settlement of fishing camps and shrimp boats before levee work reshaped the shoreline, and the Sicilian families who worked it left behind a Creole-Italian way of cooking that R&O has served since 1980. The roast beef po-boy arrives collapsing into its own debris gravy, the onion rings come stacked high, and the same kitchen turns out a thin-crust pizza and a serious seafood gumbo. Portions are sized for people who spent the morning on a boat.