Galleria Umberto

North End, Boston · Pizza · $

Galleria Umberto opens at 10:45am and closes when the food runs out - usually early afternoon. It's been this way since the 1960s: Sicilian-style pizza squares and arancini from a counter on Hanover Street, priced under $5, with a line that forms before the doors open and hasn't shortened with age. The arancini - fried rice balls stuffed with ragù and peas - are reason enough to show up. Cash only. Come hungry. Don't linger.