Bizzarro Italian Cafe

Wallingford, Seattle · Italian · $$

Wallingford has held on to this one since long before the neighborhood got expensive: a small Italian room hung with chairs, bicycles and salvage, and pasta rolled by hand every day underneath it all. The elk bolognese is the dish to reckon with, Oregon elk and pork shoulder simmered with fennel, thyme and Mama Lil's peppers over pappardelle. The room has never tidied up for anyone, and that is plainly on purpose.