Casa Gish Bac

Pico-Union, Los Angeles · Mexican · $$

Maria Ramos is the third generation of a barbacoa family from Tlacolula de Matamoros in Oaxaca, where she started cooking in the Sunday market at ten years old. Her mole negro runs past thirty ingredients, roasted and ground until it lands sweet, bitter and deep all at once. The family cooked on Washington Boulevard for years and now works out of a room on South Vermont.