Sisters and Brothers

Georgetown, Seattle · Fried Chicken · $$

Nashville hot chicken began as a revenge dish, cayenne paste brushed onto fried chicken hot enough to punish, and it only works when a kitchen respects the whole range instead of just the top of it. Heat here runs one through eleven and is meant literally, across tenders, thighs and whole wings, with hush puppies, collards and fried okra to put the fire out. There is a full bar, which is the correct pairing.