Tlecan

Roma Norte, Mexico City · Mexican · $$$

Tlecan brings the culinary language of the Oaxacan isthmus to the Roma without defaulting to a greatest-hits menu - tlayudas built on hand-pressed blandas, mole negro, tasajo, and mezcal poured from single-village bottles. The Isthmus of Tehuantepec is the narrowest strip of Mexico, a land of extreme heat, matriarchal markets, and one of the country's most distinctive cuisines; Tlecan explains this without a lecture. The courtyard setting softens the menu's intensity.