Crockett's Public House

Puyallup, Tacoma · New American · $$

Downtown Puyallup was built around agriculture and the state fair, and Crockett's occupies a converted feed store a few blocks from both, with the bones of the building left where they are. The fire-grilled artichoke is the local landmark, but the house meatballs, finished with pistachios, are what regulars reorder first. Loud on fair weekends, which is arguably the right time to go.